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that's close to what I did only difference instead of having a wire cut to jump the 2 coils I left the original wires plugged in, I figure the existing jumper wire would make the connection between the 2 coils, checked the point again after trying that , they open and make good contact and they look like they're in good shape I cleaned them with 800 grit sand paper no luck, I was thinking the condenser is bad but like you said from more reading on the subject I should still see a spark with a bad condenser..
I will try again by making a jumper wire and retrace , maybe i missed something ..
the wiring seems in great shape and not original , bike was rewired by the previous owner The alternator can provide enough power at kicking speed to start the bike IF it's aided by a starting capacitor.
However, this is moot insofar as getting a spark if you have a battery connected to the coils.
When the points are open, the coil is "off" (not grounded), and when the points are closed, the coil is "on" (grounded). Now, with a continuity meter, and with the points open (you can slip a piece of matchbook cover between the points to insure that they're open), verify that there is no continuity between the "hot" side of the points (the side that the wire is connected to) and the engine case.
If there is continuity between the hot side of the points and the engine case when the points are open, the coil will be "on" all the time and you will get no spark.
As was pointed out, the chainway is probably not the best place for it.
And, as Gavin suggested, since you're not going with an original resto, you should probably replace the OE rectifier and zener diode with an aftermarket rectifier/regulator unit. The seat mounting lugs have no hole in them, on my '66 A65l there are mounting bolts that go through the tabs and screw into the seat.
The finned mount under the fork was a '67 model feature. so far I've replaced coils, points , plugs , rectifier with a tympanium reg/rectifierstill no spark even when I connect a battery to the coils .. If I understand correctly the alternator does not provide the electricity to start a bile but does it still apply for a batteryless bike ?It may be a breaker point inspection cover; they have only two mounting screws.(I've never checked to see if the two covers are of the same diameter.) The zener diode was originally mounted in a finned alu. It's typically connected to the negative battery terminal or to negative lead from the rectifier.If all this is intact, and you have no spark, my first guess would be that the breaker points are dirty, or are not opening and closing.The battery goes where the starting capacitor and rectifier are now.
i do like the idea of a batteryless bikebatteryless bikes are cool , until you stall at lights because you touched the brake pedal and snuff the sparks. Theres a very good chance your condensers are FUBAR, get new ones, better still get a 6CA breaker plate and points and fit the remote condensers.